VISIT CUBA USING PUBLIC TRANSPORT : IT' S POSSIBLE !

 

This is not a travel story, it's only a source of information addressed to those who wish to visit Cuba.

 

Despite all we had read in most of the guides about Cuba, we wanted to use public transport rather than hire a car. So we did it and encountered no difficulty crossing the country in both directions.

 

We went to Cuba from March 26th to April 9th 1999. We arrived in Habana where we stayed in a Casa Particular before we took the train to Santiago.

We had read and heard that you have to book 15 days in advance to get a ticket. We booked ours 2 days before and we paid for them only a few hours before leaving.

 

We took the 'Especial Train' which stops in the following towns :

  • Habana, depart 7.30 pm
  • Matanzas, 8.56
  • Santa Clara, 11.19
  • Camaguey, 3.31 am
  • Las Tunas, 5.37
  • Santiago, arrives at 9.10 the next day.

 

In the other direction, the train leaves Santiago at 9.35 pm and arrives in Habana at 11.10 am with the same stops.

The trains runs every day of the week.

 

We paid 43 US $ for a single. The train was really comfortable, with reclining seats. The only trouble is the air-conditioning, absolutely freezing. You will need every piece of clothing you possess to fight the cold. Another tip : you can buy coffee in the train but you might need your own cup... They also serve food in a separate car.

 

From Santiago we went to Camaguey on another train which also goes to Habana. We left at 5 pm and arrived at 10.20 pm. The ticket was 11.50 $. Once again, no need to book in advance (with dollars, you're sure to find a seat) and you buy your ticket the day you leave.

 

We left Camaguey on the same train which had brought us the day before. We left at 10.30 pm and arrived in Santa Clara at 3 am . Ticket was 9 $.

 

From Santa Clara to Trinidad, we chose the bus. You can take the train to Sancti Spiritus and the the bus to Trinidad (but the timetables are a bit complicated) or do as we did, take a bus direct from S. Clara to Trinidad. We left at 1.30 pm and arrived at 4.20. The station in S Clara is a few minutes walk from Che's Mausoleum, which is far from the town centre. You need a taxi; we took a horse and cart for 20 pesos. The bus to Trinidad costs 10 $.

 

From Trinidad, we went back to Habana taking a bus run by Viazul, a company for tourists. The bus is very modern, very air-conditioned but very uncomfortable. It takes 5 hours to do the journey and leaves everyday at 3 pm. It costs 25 $.

 

Casas particulares :

  • In Habana, we highly recommend :
      Miriam and Geraldo, in Old Habana (note that only 11 Casas are accredited in this area, most of the casas being in the Vedado which we found uninteresting and far from the center). It's our best address in Cuba for its warm welcome and the excellent cooking of Geraldo. Eric, their son, speaks English and Geraldo promised he'd start to learn it soon.

      611, calle Cuba, between Luz and Sol, in front of Santa Clara's Convent. Tel : 62-7144

      25 $ for a double, breakfast included.

  • Santiago de Cuba : Tony y Marisol, El Mirador de Santiago
      On the top floor of a building close to the cathedral, with a great terrace overlooking the port and the bay. Wonderful welcome and cooking too.

      603, calle Corona, between Heredia and Seguridad.

      20 $ for a double, breakfast included.

  • Camaguey : Dr Luis Perez Alvarez
      One bedroom in a superb house. Your host speaks fluent English.

      522, calle San Martin, between Republica and Santa Rosa.

      Tel : 93456 and 98510

      15 $ for a double + 3 $ per breakfast (which is excellent !)

       

  • Santa Clara : Alixa Martinez, 2 bedrooms
      7, calle Bonifacio Martinez and Sindico.

      Tel : 4680

      15 $ for a double + 2 $ per breakfast.

       

  • Trinidad : 2 addresses
    •  Hostal La China, at Lucia and Noel's, 2 bedrooms and wonderful hosts !
        209, calle Frank Pais between Lino Perez and Antonio Guiteras. Tel : 3153

      15 $ for a double, breakfast included. Food available for about 7 $.

       

    • 'chez' Carlos Sotolongo, the only casa particular on the Plaza Mayor. A wonderful setting, very quiet in the heart of town.

      The address is ... Plaza Mayor. Tel : 4169

      20 $ for a double, breakfast included (served on the patio). Food available (the lobster is wonderful). Give our best regards to the grand-father of the house, who mends clocks, radios, etc...

       

    Bars and restaurants :

  • La Habana :
    • Cheap and cheerful, El Torrelavega, in Obrapia between Mercaderes and Oficios. Cocktails at 1 $. Food available (bocaditos y hamburgers between 0.5 and 2 $).
    • Hanoï, corner of Brazil and Bernaza, easily visible thanks to its yellow front (and its flies...).
    • More chic, the restaurant of a new hotel, El Conde de Vilanueva, at the corner of Mercaderes and Lamparilla, easily visible thanks to its... red front.
    • El Centro Andaluz de la Habana, near the Spanish embassy, on the Prado, towards the sea, where you can have an authentic tortilla for 1 $ in an impressive setting.
    • A mini-supermarket in Old Habana, a rarity : 461, calle Brazil.

 

  • Santiago :
    • A nice paladar : Mercy, 551, calle Padre Pico. Main course between 7 & 9 $
    • Excellent cigars made while you wait by a charming muchacha, at the hotel Casa Grande, near the Cathedral.

 

  • Camaguey :
    • Mar Azul, an excellent restaurant where you can only pay in pesos.. Consequently, a full meal for around a pound (or less than 2 $)... We warmly recommend the cocktails (the mojito is at least as good as at the Bodeguita).

      426, calle Republica.

    • A good bar : El Cambio, Cathedral Square, with a very friendly barman : Pipo. 

     

    • Another bar, in the courtyard of the Hotel Colon, calle Republica. The restaurant was less impressive, but the bar...

     

  • Trinidad :
    • We liked la Casa de la Trova, near the Plaza Mayor. The manager and Guillermo the barman are very friendly, the cocktails are delicious and the music is great.

 

If you wish to add your favorite addresses, your comments,

give an account of your staying in Cuba,

contact mr and you will be on this page.

Then, everybody will be able to enjoy it !

That's it ! For now at least. If you have any questions, or if you want any more information, send me a mail !